60 Years of Roses ( 1950 - 2010 ) 60 Years of Service



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ROSE PLANTING GUIDE

 

Best time to plant roses-  
Bare Rooted - JUNE to mid SEPTEMBER
Potted - MARCH to DECEMBER

 

Roses are particularly easy to grow being tolerant to hot and cold climates. They flower for around nine months of the year and may last for thirty years. Roses can be planted  both in winter (Bare Root), or grown in a container at anytime - Spring, Summer or Autumn.

Plants must be well drained, and watered well whilst growing. Roses thrive in full sunlight with a minimum of five hours required each day for best results.

Roses should never be fertilizer at time of planting.

WARNING: DO NOT PUT ANY UNDECOMPOSED COMPOST OR ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZER INTO HOLE OR NEAR THE ROOTS.

 

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ROSE CULTURAL NOTES


Perhaps the greatest secret in rose growing is the early preparation of the garden bed. There is more to planting a rose than digging a hole, spreading out the roots and then replacing the soil. Before you even lift a spade, you should have carefully considered the soil.

 

The most expensive roses you can buy will grow only as well as the soil allows. Very few soils are naturally ideal but almost all can be transformed into a satisfactory home for roses. Roses prefer a slightly acid soil, with a soil ph of, or between, 6 and 7 with 6.5 preferred. Acid soils below 6 need lime or dolomite. Alkaline soils above 7 ph need sulphur. For best results, it is good idea to have soil tested and prepared at least 6 weeks before planting. (If more information is needed referring soil testing, please contact us by phone, post or e-mail.)

 

Rose gardens must be kept well away from trees and shrubs, planting should be carried out from May to September. When planting your roses, don’t make the mistake of digging a hole which is too deep and narrow. The planting hole must be large enough to allow the roots to be spread out, without cramping.

 

Soil at the bottom of the hole is drawn into a small mound, place plant in hole spreading roots evenly over mound, work soil around the roots and then firming soil with feet, add more soil and make sure that the bud union is approx. 2 cm. above ground level. Stamp soil down firmly.

 

To the impression made by stamping, add 10 litres of water and leave until water soaks away, fill in hole with loose soil. Check before further watering (scratch loose soil from surface to where stamping impression was made, check for moisture, if sufficient moisture is present then there is no need of watering).

 

Repeat this procedure every couple of days as the soil may not need any further watering until plants have shot and are in growth, when the plants will need frequent watering. PLEASE make sure that you never put artificial fertilizers in the soil surrounding the newly planted rose bush. Such applications may burn the tender roots. Our comprehensive planting guide is sent out with each order.

 

We often receive queries regarding the blooms that appear on newly established roses. Our advice is to let these blooms mature and then cut the flower with a short stem, cut back to the first strong eye which points outward.

 

Pruning is another problem, which seems to worry many of our growers. The purpose of pruning is to get rid of any old and spindly wood every year and encourage the regular development of the strong and healthy stems. Note that pruning will not give you more flowers next year (this is the job of feeding); but it will give you a well shaped bush or tree which will continue to flower freely for many years to come. We recommend that the grower first cut out completely any dead wood and all parts of stems which are obviously diseased or damaged. Cut out completely any very thin stems and remove any branch which rubs against another, aim to produce an open-centred bush. Stems are cut back to about half of their length. Weaker than average stems should be reduced by more than this amount. Heavy pruning should be carried out only in winter ( late July or early August); when the plant is dormant.

 

Spraying is an essential chore for the successful rose grower. To cover this aspect, we have included a spray programme and several environmental spray recipes at the back of this catalogue.

 

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TEN TIPS TO SUCCESSFUL ROSE GROWING

 

1. TIME - Spend time caring for your Roses. Growing roses is a time consuming passion, that will reward you with lots of wonderful flowers. You should allow at least 1 to 2 hours per week for an average sized garden of 10-15 plants to carry out all the required maintenance tasks.

2. SOIL - Roses prefer a well drained soil, preferably sandy loam with a PH of 6.5. Most poorer soils can be improved to accommodate roses. NB - Always check soil PH level at least 4 weeks prior to planting and then once or twice per year there after to maintain correct PH level. Never plant new roses in freshly composted or manured beds. This should be done 8-10 weeks before planting.

3. LIGHT - Roses require at least 5-6 hours of full sunlight per day. Plant a minimum of 3m - 4m away from large trees and palms to avoid root invasion and shading from sunlight by tall trees. Afternoon shade is OK and in most cases beneficial on hot summer afternoons. Where possible, position rose gardens on the north - eastern side of your house for the best results.

4. SPACE - Do not over crowd rose gardens with annuals, other plants or shrubs. Roses grow best when planted in a bed of their own. Plant roses at least 90cm. apart and follow planting guides when planting new roses.

5. MULCH - Keep surface of rose bed well mulched, with either Lucerne hay, straw, grass clippings, old dry natural cow manure or woodchips, BUT NOT pine bark. Mulching keeps weeds away and in summer, retains moisture and prevents heat burn from loose soil.

6. NUTRIENTS - (Fertilizer) Roses will only grow as good as you feed them. Fertilize in Spring, Summer and Autumn with 60-70 grams / sq. m. of Nitrophoska Rose Food. Three weeks after each application, you should apply some organic fertilizer such as Dynamic Lifter or Organic Life, to maintain correct Ph. levels and to avoid soil burn out. Pamper your roses weekly in summer with liquid fertilizer such as Phostogen or Fish Emulsion. This promotes strong healthy growth of foliage and flowers and helps plants to resist attack from pests.

7. WATER - Deep water root systems by soaking soil with a sprinkler on well established plants for about 1½ - 2 hours every fortnight, or as required - depending on the weather conditions. In windy, dry conditions, you should be prepared to check the soil every couple of days to ensure that moisture is still present in the soil underneath the mulch. Water only if soil is starting to dry out.

8. SPRAYING - Regular spraying is essential for a healthy rose garden. Spray roses every two weeks to PREVENT Black Spot and other fungus diseases before they occur. Inspect the flowers and leaves weekly for signs of any pests, that would damage the Leaf system. Common and most damaging to roses are Aphids, Mites, Thrips, Scale, leaf eating beetles and caterpillars. Use only recommended rose sprays and chemicals on targeted Pests. Always follow directions on pack when using sprays and fertilizers

9. PRUNING - Hard prune bush roses from mid July to early August to promote strong Spring growth. Light prune again in mid March to remove any dead or spindly twigs, (but leave on any new strong growth) for a vigorous Autumn flush.

10. HYGIENE - Maintain your rose garden in a weed and pest free environment. Do not allow near-by plants and gardens to harbour pests. Regularly remove old dead flower heads and diseased leaves to promote fresh new growth. A healthy root and leaf system are essential to obtain, a beautiful flourishing Rose garden.

 

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FRIENDLY ENVIRONMENTAL SPRAYS

 

To help control blackspot and mildew
Will NOT help in the control of insects.
Spray ONLY in the cool of the day
 

VEGETABLE COOKING OIL SPRAY
1 part ( 1 cup) of any vegetable cooking oil
½ part (1/2 cup) water

Place into blender with a teaspoon of washing up detergent ( this is not essential but it makes the mixture able to be stored for a length of time). Blend for a few seconds to create a mayonnaise type mix. Place into jar.

Mixing : Mix 1 part (10 mls.) home-made spray to 40 parts (400 mls) water and spray all parts of plant, especially under the leaf. (i.e. 25mls per litre of water.)

Spray every ten to fourteen days.

 

MILK SPRAY RECIPE
One part full cream milk to 10 parts water.

 

Spray young growth as it appears at least every 10 days to protect against Black Spot.

To control insects,

spray with NEEM OIL. Follow directions on pack.

 

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ROSE PESTS & DISEASES

 

To keep your roses looking good, regular spraying of your plants to control pests and diseases is essential. Here is an easy to follow spray programme. This programme will control all grubs, beetles, aphids, black spot, mildew and scale insects.

 

Week 1. Spray withmancozeb, carbaryl and rogor. Or alternatively use Yates rose gun or substitute.

Week 2. Check for any pests and if any found, repeat week one, if none detected, no need to spray.

Week 3. Spray with Triforene. Or use Yates Rose Gun.

Week 4. Check for pests - grub, scales and aphids, etc. If any detected, spray with Malathon.

Week 5. Should be at the end of the month, return to week 1 and follow through programme again.

Always follow directions on pack for rates and pests controlled,

Note - Mancozeb can be substituted with Kocide or copper oxychloride.

If any further help is needed - contact our nursery.

 

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CITRUS TREE PESTS

 

To control aphids, leaf miner, grubs, scale insects, black spot, fruit blemish and black sooty mould -
Spray citrus once a month with a mixture of white oil, diazamin and copper oxychloride (kocide).

More frequent sprayings may be necessary. If pest populations are high during summer, you should then spray every two weeks.

NOTE: If you do not like to use chemicals on your plants, environmental friendly alternatives are available such as soap sprays, neem oil and vegetable oil sprays.

See previous page for details on recipes or phone nursery during office hours for more information.

 

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