ROSE PLANTING GUIDE
| Best time to plant roses- |
|
| Bare Rooted - |
JUNE to mid SEPTEMBER |
| Potted - |
MARCH to DECEMBER |
Roses are particularly easy to grow being tolerant to hot and cold
climates. They flower for around nine months of the year and may last for
thirty years. Roses can be planted both in winter (Bare Root), or
grown in a container at anytime - Spring, Summer or Autumn.
Plants must be well drained, and watered well whilst growing. Roses
thrive in full sunlight with a minimum of five hours required each day for
best results.
Roses should never be fertilizer at time of planting.
WARNING: DO NOT PUT ANY UNDECOMPOSED COMPOST OR ARTIFICIAL FERTILIZER
INTO HOLE OR NEAR THE ROOTS.
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ROSE CULTURAL NOTES
Perhaps the greatest secret in rose growing is the early
preparation of the garden bed. There is more to planting a rose than digging
a hole, spreading out the roots and then replacing the soil. Before you even
lift a spade, you should have carefully considered the soil.
The most expensive roses you can buy will grow only as well as the soil
allows. Very few soils are naturally ideal but almost all can be transformed
into a satisfactory home for roses. Roses prefer a slightly acid soil, with
a soil ph of, or between, 6 and 7 with 6.5 preferred. Acid soils below 6
need lime or dolomite. Alkaline soils above 7 ph need sulphur. For best
results, it is good idea to have soil tested and prepared at least 6 weeks
before planting. (If more information is needed referring soil testing,
please contact us by phone, post or e-mail.)
Rose gardens must be kept well away from trees and shrubs, planting should
be carried out from May to September. When planting your roses, don’t make
the mistake of digging a hole which is too deep and narrow. The planting
hole must be large enough to allow the roots to be spread out, without
cramping.
Soil at the bottom of the hole is drawn into a small mound, place plant in
hole spreading roots evenly over mound, work soil around the roots and then
firming soil with feet, add more soil and make sure that the bud union is
approx. 2 cm. above ground level. Stamp soil down firmly.
To the impression made by stamping, add 10 litres of water and leave until
water soaks away, fill in hole with loose soil. Check before further
watering (scratch loose soil from surface to where stamping impression was
made, check for moisture, if sufficient moisture is present then there is no
need of watering).
Repeat this procedure every couple of days as the soil may not need any
further watering until plants have shot and are in growth, when the plants
will need frequent watering. PLEASE make sure that you never put artificial
fertilizers in the soil surrounding the newly planted rose bush. Such
applications may burn the tender roots. Our comprehensive planting guide is
sent out with each order.
We often receive queries regarding the blooms that appear on newly
established roses. Our advice is to let these blooms mature and then cut the
flower with a short stem, cut back to the first strong eye which points
outward.
Pruning is another problem, which seems to worry many of our growers. The
purpose of pruning is to get rid of any old and spindly wood every year and
encourage the regular development of the strong and healthy stems. Note that
pruning will not give you more flowers next year (this is the job of
feeding); but it will give you a well shaped bush or tree which will
continue to flower freely for many years to come. We recommend that the
grower first cut out completely any dead wood and all parts of stems which
are obviously diseased or damaged. Cut out completely any very thin stems
and remove any branch which rubs against another, aim to produce an
open-centred bush. Stems are cut back to about half of their length. Weaker
than average stems should be reduced by more than this amount. Heavy pruning
should be carried out only in winter ( late July or early August); when the
plant is dormant.
Spraying is an essential chore for the successful rose grower. To cover this
aspect, we have included a spray programme and several environmental spray
recipes at the back of this catalogue.
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TEN TIPS TO SUCCESSFUL ROSE GROWING
1. TIME - Spend time caring for your Roses. Growing roses is a time
consuming passion, that will reward you with lots of wonderful flowers. You
should allow at least 1 to 2 hours per week for an average sized garden of
10-15 plants to carry out all the required maintenance tasks.
2. SOIL - Roses prefer a well drained soil, preferably sandy loam with a PH
of 6.5. Most poorer soils can be improved to accommodate roses. NB - Always
check soil PH level at least 4 weeks prior to planting and then once or
twice per year there after to maintain correct PH level. Never plant new
roses in freshly composted or manured beds. This should be done 8-10 weeks
before planting.
3. LIGHT - Roses require at least 5-6 hours of full sunlight per day. Plant
a minimum of 3m - 4m away from large trees and palms to avoid root invasion
and shading from sunlight by tall trees. Afternoon shade is OK and in most
cases beneficial on hot summer afternoons. Where possible, position rose
gardens on the north - eastern side of your house for the best results.
4. SPACE - Do not over crowd rose gardens with annuals, other plants or
shrubs. Roses grow best when planted in a bed of their own. Plant roses at
least 90cm. apart and follow planting guides when planting new roses.
5. MULCH - Keep surface of rose bed well mulched, with either Lucerne hay,
straw, grass clippings, old dry natural cow manure or woodchips, BUT NOT
pine bark. Mulching keeps weeds away and in summer, retains moisture and
prevents heat burn from loose soil.
6. NUTRIENTS - (Fertilizer) Roses will only grow as good as you feed them.
Fertilize in Spring, Summer and Autumn with 60-70 grams / sq. m. of Nitrophoska Rose Food. Three weeks after each application, you should apply
some organic fertilizer such as Dynamic Lifter or Organic Life, to maintain
correct Ph. levels and to avoid soil burn out. Pamper your roses weekly in
summer with liquid fertilizer such as Phostogen or Fish Emulsion. This
promotes strong healthy growth of foliage and flowers and helps plants to
resist attack from pests.
7. WATER - Deep water root systems by soaking soil with a sprinkler on well
established plants for about 1½ - 2 hours every fortnight, or as required -
depending on the weather conditions. In windy, dry conditions, you should be
prepared to check the soil every couple of days to ensure that moisture is
still present in the soil underneath the mulch. Water only if soil is
starting to dry out.
8. SPRAYING - Regular spraying is essential for a healthy rose garden. Spray
roses every two weeks to PREVENT Black Spot and other fungus diseases before
they occur. Inspect the flowers and leaves weekly for signs of any pests,
that would damage the Leaf system. Common and most damaging to roses are
Aphids, Mites, Thrips, Scale, leaf eating beetles and caterpillars. Use only
recommended rose sprays and chemicals on targeted Pests. Always follow
directions on pack when using sprays and fertilizers
9. PRUNING - Hard prune bush roses from mid July to early August to promote
strong Spring growth. Light prune again in mid March to remove any dead or
spindly twigs, (but leave on any new strong growth) for a vigorous Autumn
flush.
10. HYGIENE - Maintain your rose garden in a weed and pest free environment.
Do not allow near-by plants and gardens to harbour pests. Regularly remove
old dead flower heads and diseased leaves to promote fresh new growth. A
healthy root and leaf system are essential to obtain, a beautiful
flourishing Rose garden.
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FRIENDLY ENVIRONMENTAL SPRAYS
To help control blackspot and mildew
Will NOT help in the control of insects.
Spray ONLY in the cool of the day
VEGETABLE COOKING OIL SPRAY
1 part ( 1 cup) of any vegetable cooking oil
½ part (1/2 cup) water
Place into blender with a teaspoon of washing up detergent ( this is not
essential but it makes the mixture able to be stored for a length of time).
Blend for a few seconds to create a mayonnaise type mix. Place into jar.
Mixing : Mix 1 part (10 mls.) home-made spray to 40 parts (400 mls) water
and spray all parts of plant, especially under the leaf. (i.e. 25mls per
litre of water.)
Spray every ten to fourteen days.
MILK SPRAY RECIPE
One part full cream milk to 10 parts water.
Spray young growth as it appears
at least every 10 days to protect against Black Spot.
To control insects,
spray with NEEM OIL. Follow directions on pack.
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ROSE PESTS & DISEASES
To keep your roses looking good, regular spraying of your plants to
control pests and diseases is essential. Here is an easy to follow spray
programme. This programme will control all grubs, beetles, aphids, black
spot, mildew and scale insects.
Week 1. Spray withmancozeb, carbaryl and rogor. Or alternatively use Yates
rose gun or substitute.
Week 2. Check for any pests and if any found, repeat week one, if none
detected, no need to spray.
Week 3. Spray with Triforene. Or use Yates Rose Gun.
Week 4. Check for pests - grub, scales and aphids, etc. If any detected,
spray with Malathon.
Week 5. Should be at the end of the month, return to week 1 and follow
through programme again.
Always follow directions on pack for rates and pests controlled,
Note - Mancozeb can be substituted with Kocide or copper oxychloride.
If any further help is needed - contact our nursery.
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CITRUS TREE PESTS
To control aphids, leaf miner, grubs, scale insects, black spot, fruit
blemish and black sooty mould -
Spray citrus once a month with a mixture of white oil, diazamin and copper
oxychloride (kocide).
More frequent sprayings may be necessary. If pest populations are high
during summer, you should then spray every two weeks.
NOTE: If you do not like to use chemicals on your plants, environmental
friendly alternatives are available such as soap sprays, neem oil and
vegetable oil sprays.
See previous page for details on recipes or phone nursery during office
hours for more information.
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